where frost or water does not get underneath. It is generally recommended to put several inches of stones, gravel or cinders on top of the earth, but many floors are laid without such a bottom. Partitions for horse stalls and cattle stanchions can be held in place on a cement floor by putting down iron belts or pieces of gas pipe when the floor is laid. Let them project 2 or 3 inches above the floor

MAKING A CONCRETE WALK

The best way is to dig a trench 16 inches deep, put in a foot of loose gravel or stone, leveling it off with fine material. On top of this spread 3 inches of concrete made of one part portland cement, two parts sand and four parts crushed stone or gravel. On this put a granolithic finish I inch thick mixed in the proportions of 1-2-3. Trowel it down smooth and hard. Joints 4 inch thick and filled with sand should be left every 5 feet to prevent walk from cracking

CEMENTING A CISTERN WALL

In making a surface waterproof, a mixture of about one part portland cement to two of sand will shed water from a roof or wall, but to make a surface perfectly watertight, so that it will keep out standing water, it is better to use neat cement only, that is, cement with no other material but the water with which it is mixed, and it will cost less to put on a coat 4 inch thick of neat cement than one I inch thick, one-half or two-thirds sand, as the neat cement mixed with plenty of water is waterproof.

SPECIAL USES FOR CEMENT

A sack of portland cement is a very useful thing to have for making quick repairs about the farm. A hole in a drain pipe can be stopped in a few minutes with a little cement, mixed with water, thick as putty. A crack in a barrel can be stopped this way. Hardwood floors may be patched and nail holes filled so they will not leak.

A waterproof floor can be laid over an old board floor in a short time. Sweep the old floor clean and dry and nail down all loose boards. Cover with a layer of heavy wire netting, tacking it down occasionally. Over this lay a layer of concrete of one part portland cement, three parts clean sand, mixed with water to a thin paste.

Smooth thoroughly, but if it is to be used by stock, brush with an old broom to make it rough, then let it dry thoroughly before using the floor. Gutters may be put in where necessary. Holes in an old shingled roof can be quickly stopped by forcing a little cement putty under the shingle where the leak appears.

Some special uses to which cement is being put are the making of bee hives, brick for pavement and ordinary foundations, cement shingles for roofing, grain bins in the form of square boxlike and round barrel-like receptacles. The use of this excellent material for farm structures is only just opening up and it is destined to become the most important material for general farm building.

A wooden reinforcement in the center of a concrete fence post is worse than useless. It does not make a bond with the concrete, and thus weakens,

instead of strengthens, the post. Of course, the same is true of wooden reinforcement of any concrete work.

A TIME-HONORED HANDY DEVICE

(SEE FRONTISPIECE)

How dear to my heart are the scenes of my childhood,

When fond recollection presents them to view! The orchard, the meadow, the deep-tangled wildwood,

And every loved spot that my infancy knew! The wide-spreading pond and the mill that stood by it;

The bridge, and the rock where the cataract fell; The cot of my father, the dairy-house nigh it;

And e'en the rude bucket that hung in the wellThe old oaken bucket, the iron-bound bucket, The old moss-covered bucket that hung in the well.

How ardent I seized it with hands that were glowing,

And quick to the white-pebbled bottom it fell! Then soon, with the emblem of truth overflowing, And dripping with coolness, it rose from the well. -Samuel Woodworth.

FREEZING ICE IN BLOCKS

W

HERE a pond or stream is not handy from which to get the year's supply of ice, blocks can be frozen in forms with comparatively little labor. A supply of pure water is essential. The forms are best made

of galvanized iron of any size desired. A convenient size is 16 inches wide, 24 inches long and 12 inches deep inside measure. The sides and ends should be made to taper 4 inch, so

HOMEMADE ICE MOLDS

that the frozen block will drop out easily. The top of the mold should be reinforced with wire for the sake of strength and durability.

With a dozen or 20 forms one can put up quite a supply of ice during the winter. The forms should

be set level on joists or boards and placed a few inches apart. Fill them nearly full with pure water and let them freeze, which they will do in one or two days and nights in suitable weather. When frozen solid, turn the forms bottom side up and pour a dipper of warm water on them, which will release the cake of ice. The form can then be lifted off, the ice put away in the icehouse and the form. filled with water again.

SAVING THE SEED CORN

Here is a handy device for preserving select ears of seed corn. It consists of a wide board

fastened between two supports nailed to the edges. The board stands upright on one end and may be as long as desired. Drive heavy spikes through it from the opposite side and stick an ear of corn upon each spike. This allows for the passage of air, and the ears can be examined without removing them from the rack. It

is much to be preferred to expensive wire racks, as each nail may be numbered and a record kept of the ears in this way. This rack was designed at the Idaho experiment station.