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wheels can be picked up from discarded machinery or quickly made by nailing together crosswise two boards to prevent them from splitting, boring a hole in the center for the axle and rounding them off with a key hole saw. One end of the table should be made several inches higher than the other, so that the culls will roll into a pile at the lower end.

OREGON SORTING TABLE

In the Hood river district of Oregon a table such as shown here is commonly used. This is made to accommodate two packers. To make such a table take four standards about 3 feet high. It is made 3 x 4 feet in size, the top covered with strong burlap or canvas and allowed to hang rather loosely. Saw off the tops of the legs on a bevel so as not to have the sharp corners push into the burlap, and make points that will bruise or cut the fruit.

A piece of old garden hose is generally nailed around the top of the table to protect the fruit. Besides the braces shown in the cut it is also well to wire the legs and braces together firmly, as there is a heavy load to support. The shelves on each side are for holding the boxes, as all the good fruit in this region is boxed. The height is only relative, the point being to construct it so each packer can work with the greatest comfort, avoiding back bending in all cases. The top should not be greater than 3 x 4 feet, as anything larger would not allow two packers to reach all points of it without unnecessary stretching.

PORTABLE HAY DERRICK

A

VERY satisfactory derrick for stacking hay is shown in the sketch. The base pieces are 6 x 6 inches by 16 feet. For the center pole we use a straight round pole 7 inches in diameter at the base and 5 inches at the top about 24

feet long. We put an iron band around the base and insert the peg upon which it turns. About halfway to the top is an iron collar, which has three loops to it that form an attachment for the braces, which are fastened about 15 feet from the bottom of the central pole. This allows the pole to turn readily when in upright position. The top framework is made of 2 x 6-inch pieces

HAY DERRICK

Iz feet long. The rigging, consisting of three pulleys and the hay rope, is attached as shown in sketch. By having the lower pole attached near the base of the upright the arms will make half a turn when the hay fork is lifted, thus swinging around from the ground or wagon onto the stack.

A WIRE TIGHTENER

Here is a device easily made and very convenient to use in tightening barbed wire when stringing it upon the posts. Cut out a piece of inch board in the shape shown in the picture with a notch to let in the face of a hammer. Insert a long bolt at the point indicated by the light dotted lines, to prevent splitting. Fasten on the hammer with leather straps. The

TIGHTENER IN USE

sharp brads should stick out about half an inch. Carefully finish the handle so that it will be smooth and not hurt the hands when you are using the device. It should be made of tough hardwood.

FENCE WIRE REEL

Here is a device on which one can wind barbed wire that is much better than an old barrel. The reel is mounted on a truck made of old buggy wheels with short shafts. The cart may be drawn

along by a man while a boy steadies the reel to keep it from unwinding too rapidly. For winding up wire, the machine is best pushed just fast enough

ນານາ

WIRE REEL ON WHEELS

to keep up with the wire as it is being wound on the reel. A crank placed upon the reel proves serviceable in winding up.

Never sign a writing till you have read it; neither drink water till you have seen it.

One part of knowledge consists in being ignorant of such things as are not worthy to be known.

Get the work habit.

SAFE WAY TO STRING BARBED WIRE

One of the most satisfactory ways to unreel barbed wire is to make a contrivance similar to the one shown on page 157. Fasten a short piece of plank to the front end of a stone boat. Bore a 2-inch hole in this plank and set the spool

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