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PRACTICAL HIVES AND HIVE MAKING

VERY apiarist knows that there is no item in bee keeping of more practical importance than the hive and brood frame. The Langstroth, or Simplicity size of frame has become almost standard, for there are more frames of this size in use than all others combined. The frame proper is 175% inches long, 9% inches deep, and the top bar is 19 inches long. There are several styles made, but many prefer what is known as the Hoffman. This has a heavy top bar in depth, as well as width. The ends, or end bars, are made 13% inches wide for about 3 inches down and one side is worked off to a knife edge, which comes against the square edge of the next frame, making them self-spacing, but not a closed-end frame, and allowing the proper bee space between the top bars. This works fairly well without the use of the honey board, though one is preferable.

The hive for this frame, to be best adapted to the production of comb or extracted honey, should contain 10 frames, the inside dimensions being 15 inches wide, 10 inches deep and 183% inches long. A follower can be used at one side to assist in removing frames by first removing the follower or division board. This arrangement leaves 3% inch between the top of the frames and the top of the brood nest, so

that when the surplus cases are DOUBLE-WALLED put on the proper bee space is

HIVE

preserved. This hive is made of scant 2-inch lumber for the outside, ship-lapped together in a manner to make a perfect joint. It is 20 inches wide, 24 inches long, about 20 inches high to the eaves, or roof, outside measurements, and weighs complete about 50 pounds. The inside dimensions of the brood nest should be the same as any 8 or 10-frame hive, as the bee keeper may prefer. The brood nest is raised sufficiently to admit of packing between it and the hive proper, also a space for packing at ends and sides.

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The lower portion of the hive being well protected against the cold, the warmth of the bees will care for the upper portion. To avoid condensation cover the brood nest after removing the surplus cases with a porous substance, or chaff cushion. Make a wooden rim about 4 inches deep, covering the top and bottom with burlap and filling with wheat chaff or cut straw. Many prefer the cut straw both for cushions and packing the

hives. This rim should be made a little smaller than the inside of the hive.

In extremely warm weather the cover can be raised a few inches in front, giving a circulation of air all around the surplus department, and shading it at the same time. The cover is hinged at the back end, and when raised, as shown in cut, makes two shelves for the use of the operators, which are highly appreciated; besides, there is no lifting on or off of covers, as is the case in other hives. The alighting board is hinged and can touch the ground, which is of great advantage to the bees during a heavy flow of honey.

Perhaps there are more single-walled hives used in the United States than double-walled or chaff hives, but in northern states a double-walled hive is preferable.

DEVICE FOR EXTRACTING BEESWAX

Wax, as produced by the bees and worked into comb, is almost pure white, but, on being melted

SOLAR WAX EXTRACTOR

and cooled, is yellow. A man who knows advises every beekeeper to use the solar wax extractor.

All that is necessary is to have a box with glass to fit over it, as shown in the drawing. To melt combs, put in the box an old dripping-pan, having a hole at one corner, and that corner the lowest, with some kind of a dish set under to catch the wax. Set in the sun. To get the most out, break up the combs into fine pieces, then soak in water for a day or two longer before rendering.

SELF-FEEDER FOR BEES

A very simple device for feeding bees on syrup may be made if you take an ordinary fruit can, fill it full of syrup and over the top tie a thick rag with a string. Then invert the can in a small pan or dish. The syrup will seep out through the rag around the edges of the jar just fast enough for the bees to keep it cleaned up.

ORCHARD

AN IRON HOOP TRELLIS

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HIS trellis is made of the iron hoops that are now used so commonly upon sugar and other barrels. They are of stout wire, welded into a complete circle, and, as barrels are constantly going to pieces, one can get together quite a collection of these, when they can be assorted into uniform sizes.

An attractive trellis is shown. Three strips of wood, pointed at the lower end and finished with a knob at the top, are provided, the length being a matter for individual taste. A trellis for tomato plants will need not more than two hoops, while one for sweet peas may require a half dozen. The strips of wood should be of

inch board, 2

inches wide. The hoops are secured to the uprights by small staples made for putting up wire fencing. The wooden posts may be oiled or painted some attractive color. This trellis will be greatly appreciated both in the vegetable and flower gardens, for its strength and attractiveness.

THE TRELLIS

Diligence is the mother of good luck.-Franklin.

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