them, like Prince Rupert's drops, by the dozen. There are objects here which will not last so long. THE MEN WHO FOUGHT AGAINST NAPOLEON 1. In two long lines, from door to door of the Hall of St. Andrew and of the Hall of St. George, are drawn up the Grenadiers of the Palace, the veterans of the last war. To me those fine old soldiers were more interesting and attractive than all the display of riches and the blaze of gold and silver around and above us. Their dress recalled the days of those Titanic struggles which shook all Europe. The huge bearskin cap, with white tassels and gilt cords, the ample, broad-chested coatee and cross belts, and the white pantaloons with many buttons at the outer side from the knee to the foot, reminded one of the time when Kutusoff and Blucher and Murat and Wellington were the heroes of fast-recurring battles. These men are picked from various regiments, with some regard perhaps to size, but certainly with undoubted claims on the score of service, for there is not one of them who does not bear five or six ribands and crosses or medals on his breast. As you walk along that wall of soldiers it is difficult to believe that they have lived under three Emperors, and have fought against the great Napoleon. They are all in perfect preservation. The only thing to betray old age is a certain stiffness about the knee, and those implacable and invincible and inevitable wrinkles which will come upon us as records of so many lustres. The hair is jet black, the moustache is lustrous and dark as the boot which was wont to affright the feline of our boyhood, and the whiskers-for old Russia wore whiskers-are of the same fine polish. The surprise into which you may be thrown at such evidences of juvenility on the part of men who have seen the horrors of the Beresina, and who beheld Murat turn his back at Yaroslavitz, is removed, however, when you see that the veteran who touches his moustache blackens the fingers of his glove; he has had his hair dyed just as his boots have been polished-for effect. Some of these veterans are historical monuments-some have served under Suwaroff at Ismail and in Italy-others have marched triumphantly into Paris-others have crossed the Balkans with Diebitch. Of all their nu merous decorations these veterans seem to prize the Paris medal and riband the most, and they point to it with great pride, though it hangs amid memorials of tremendous battle-fields. How these rugged old warriors, the relics of Austerlitz, Friedland, Eylau, Pultowsk, and the Borodino must smile in their hearts at the medal which has this day been given away to nearly all Russia on account of the late war. The line in which the soldiers were dressed was perfect; the men were six paces apart, and from time to time the General on duty for the day moved up and down the ranks, took bearings with his eye from breast to breast, and dressed them with his own hands. They were of different height, being selected for merit and service, but on an average they were six feet high. GORTSCHAKOFF AND MENSCHIKOFF. In a quiet group, beside a golden pillar, there stands Gortschakoff, whose name will be ever associated with that masterly retreat which deprived France and Enggland of half their triumph. When last the writer saw that gaunt great figure it was stalking up the aisle of St. Paul's at the funeral of our great Duke. Since then years and a few months which brought with them such cares as years seldom know-have bowed down his figure, and have wrinkled that broad high brow. The Prince is covered with orders, crosses, and ribands; stars of diamonds glitter on his breast; but there is an air of gravity and care about him which shows that these honors have not been lightly bought. His eyes are dim, and the use of a pair of black-mounted spectacles adds to the severity of the expression of his face. It is very striking indeed to see the number of Russian officers who are obliged to resort to such aids to imperfect vision. There must be something peculiar in their habits, or in the climate, which renders it necessary for a large proportion of military men glasses. to wear In another spot Prince Menschikoff, who is still a favorite with the Russians, is speaking with his usual dryness of manner to an attentive little audience. The Prince is very sore respecting the criticism to which he has been exposed for his plan of defence at the Alma; and the letters which have appeared in the public papers from him and his accusers, are a Morny, at 8 o'clock, will descend from new feature in Russian journalism. The their carriages at the northern angle of Prince's friends say that his plan was this outer estrade. Just a minute or two frustrated by the neglect of the Gen- before 9 o'clock there is a great commoeral who commanded the left wing to tion among the people, who are closely carry out his instructions; these were, to packed in this outer court, and the genallow five or six battalions of the French darmes riding gently through them make to get up to the edge of the plateau, and a lane for the first carriage of the French then to attack them, and hurl them down Embassy. It comes up right gorgeously on the columns ascending from below; but-running footmen, bewigged coachman, instead of doing so, the General permitted grand chasseur-a regular glass coach, all nine or ten battalions and a battery of gold hanging; the horses and harness are artillery to crown the heights ere he as- unexceptionable, but it is rather startling sailed them with all his force, and then to hear in the Kremlin a vigorous interthey were too strong to be dislodged. pellation addressed from the dignitary on However, this may be, it is certain that the box to the leading palefrenier, "Now the Russians regard Prince Menschikoff then, Bill! why the don't you leave as the most accomplished General they the 'osses' 'eds alone?" The reply is lost possess, so far as regards the theory of in the Russian cries of attention along the war. He is extremely well-read in many line as Count de Morny descends from his branches of learning, and is said to be as carriage and steps on the estrade, where various and versatile as our own Achito- he is received by a High Chamberlain in phel-chymist, doctor, naturalist, geologist, waiting. His Excellency is dressed de lawyer, diplomatist, soldier, sailor, etc. rigueur, and is really a well-appointed His manner is imperious and harsh, albeit "tine-looking gentleman," as our great he is given to theory and reverie rather Pendennis would say. Some of his suite than action, and he never "receives" at have arrived on horseback, and the other his house, or studies the arts of popularity. carriages of the embassy are rather put into the shade by the splendor of their chief's. MEN AND WOMEN OF ALL NATIONS. Amid these warriors and statesmen, ladies in full court dress are pressing towards the inner apartments of the palace, radiant with diamonds, for the display of which the Muscovite head-dress now in vogue is peculiarly adapted. This consists of a high circlet or coronet of satin velvet, or cloth, which encompasses the top of the head, and is studded with precious stones. Persians, in high black sheepskin caps, and rich loose dresses of finest silk, and gossamer shawls-flatfaced Tartar deputies, wild delegates from the further Caspian littoral, Georgians, Circassians, Abasses, Teherkesses, Mingrelians, Ourelians, Moguls, Gourians, Daghestantees, Koords, Lapps, Kalmucks, Khirgesses, Cossacks mingling with Russians, French, English, Spaniards, Romans, Greeks, Austrians, Prussians, Saxons, Danes-here was an epitome of the Asiatic and European races, all in their finest bravery, mingling together in the narrow compass of two grand halls. THE FRENCH AMBASSADOR, The foreign ambassadors and ministers who assembled at the palace of M. de THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR. showy, but is in other respects at least as The next carriage, which is not so good as the Count's coach, is that of the English Ambassador, who with the Countess Granville, descend, are received by the Chamberlain, and in a like manner enter the Cathedral. Lord Granville is dressed in the Windsor uniform, and his wife, who to all our eyes is dressed with great richdiamonds. The horses are worthy of the ness and taste, is quite glorious with best turn-out in "the park." Que voulez de plus? The second carriage contains the Marquis and Marchioness of Stafford, the Earl of Lincoln, and Col. the Hon. Arthur Hardinge; the third, Lord Granville's brothers and Lady Margaret Leveson-Gower, Lord Ward, and Col. Maude, Royal Horse Artillery, (of the famous old I troop of Crimean report;) the others, Sir R. Peel, and Lady Emily Peel, and Lord Ashley, Lord Seymour, the Hon. Gerald Ponsonby, &c.; there were also in attendance Lord Cavendish, Lord Dalkeith, Capt. King, Mr. Luter, Sir John Acton, Sir R. King. May it be said, we DIAMONDED ESTERHAZY. were all proud of our fair countrywomen, | ready thronged with spectators of the who might have well dared comparison, lower classes and masses of soldiery. This had there been any to institute, with the way is on the verge of the plateau on ladies of other Embassies? The fact is, which the Kremlin stands, over the course that there were none, for ours is the only of the Moskwa. Nearer to the river Embassy with "ladies" attached; and, as there is another broad path, close to the for the Legations, there are only two outer wall which surrounds the ancient that of the United States (to which Mrs. fortress and overlooks the stream, and alColt and Miss Jarvis are attached) and of ready the artillerymen are standing by the Saxony (which is represented by the guns mounted on one of the old Gothic Baron and Baroness de Seebach) which forts which break the lines of the crenelare gallant enough to come with their lated wall. The people are here alsowives to Moscow. their faces turned up to the white walls of the palace. At the other side of the river, which is about 200 yards across, there is another walk lined with housesa veritable quay, on which men and women and children are standing in groups, looking towards the Kremlin. this line of houses opens out the city like some great sea; the houses are hidden almost by the thick haze of Russian autumn, but above it for many miles, in every possible shape, cupola, turret, dome, spire, cross, minaret, rise to greet the sun, and reflect his rays upon their gilded surfaces. It is impossible to imagine this scene. It is in vain, indeed, that the eye which gazes on it, seeks as it were, to seize the details of the world of clock-towers, palaces, churches, and public buildings, which seems to extend as far as the horizon itself, springing up amid, and separated by, boulevards, meadows, gardens, and small plantations. up, And now, amid a little battalion of bareheaded running footmen, a very fine old coach, with a poor team of horses, drives and from it descends-What is this? A very fine old gentleman, indeed, somewhat gone in years, but right royal and splendid in air and attire. It is Prince Paul Esterhazy, Ambassador of Austria. He is dressed in pure silk or velvet, with a huzzar jacket of the same material, braided all over with pearls. Diamonds flash forth from all the folds of his clothing. His marooncolored boots, which come up to the knee, are crusted with pearls and diamonds, and on his heels are spurs of brilliants which glitter finely in the sunshine. One would almost be proud to be kicked by such a boot, but perhaps such an honor is only reserved for the great and noble. His Excellency has a very brilliant suite. VIEW FROM THE KREMLIN: ASSOCIATIONS. Behind All the architectures, as all the nations of the globe, are represented here. Here a strange-looking dome reminds you of Calcutta or some Indian city; beside it is the mural tower and Gothic battlement of the Crusade; the sentries on the firetowers seem gigantic in the haze, and just as you begin to fancy they are warders on the donjon keep, you make out that the tower is not Norman, but very modern Byzantine, and that the man wears the long coat and flat cap of active service. There you see Chinese willow-pattern edifices beside Gothic churches, next to a green dome fantastically carved like a prodigious pine-apple. The fog, half smoke, half vapor, is tinged with many colors, as it rolls amid this forest of glittering spires and domes, and the vast mosaic of variegated cloud roofs and house tops. From the Salle Ste. André the doors on one side lead to the fine promenade which is formed on the top of the first story of the façade of the Imperial Palace. As we stepped out on this esplanade, a sight such as can neither be described nor forgotten met the eye. It was yet early-about half-past 6 o'clock; the sun shining from the left lighted up the gilt domes and vanes of the Kremlin, and of the churches on the right of the picture, with a rich orange flame, that seemed to die away or gather fresh vividness as the rolling vapors of the morning rolled up more densely from the river, or thinned away before the fickle breeze. The view is bounded by the Kremlin on the left, and on the right by As one gazed upon this scene he could the buildings of the palace, at the end of not help being startled if he remembered the façade. Below the spectator there is that fourty-four years ago Napoleon lookthe carriage way, outside the palace, al-ed down on a similar scene from the walls entering, there is a buffet which seems of the old Kremlin. Next Sunday, indeed, | ed in past centuries by forgotten descendone week hence, will be the anniversary ants of Tubal-Cain, and each a museum in of that fatal entry into Moscow which itself. On the right hand of the hall, on France has scarce avenged at Sebastopol. It was on the anniversary of this day that England and France for the last day poured that desolating stream of fire and iron on the devoted city which heralded the grand assault, and on this very day, just two years ago, the allied squadrons sailed from Varna to their rendezvous at Baltshik to prepare for the descent on the Crimea. As Moscow has arisen from its ashes so will Sebastopol arise from its ruins. But hark! There once again is the old familiar voices of the Russian cannon-a flash of fire spirts from an embrasure below, and the thick white smoke rushes into the air. Thank Heaven, the dull roar of the iron messenger of death is not heard again, but instead of that angry voice the bells of the Church of the Assumption ring out merrily, and at the signal the thousand bells of Moscow take up the chorus, and at the same time ten thousand voices of the people mingle together in a deep murmur. It is 7 o'clock. The echoes of cannon shake the old Kremlin twenty-one times in rapid succession. This is the signal for the various persons engaged in the ceremonial to repair to the places indicated in the programme and ordre du jour. THE BANQUETTING HALL: THE GLARE OF Let us now enter the banquetting-hall, Surely here are the riches of the world! Such a glare of gold plate, such a wild profusion of goblets, vases, cups, salvers, heaped on tables, massed on sideboards or carved stands along the walls of this glittering room! This is the Granovitaya Palata, the Hall of the Ancient Tsars (for so the Russians spell the word in French.) Can it be described? Assuredly not by the pen, nor by the pencil of any artist but one who can dip his brush in the hues of the rainbow. The low, many-arched roof of the hall is sustained by a huge square pillar in the centre, round which is placed a platform with receding ledges, to the height of nine or ten feet, each ledge groaning with ancient vase and dishes in gold and silver. Some of these are of the quaintest form and curious workmanship models of old castles and palaces, strange animals, battle-pieces, birds-craftily work BRITONS IN THE RUSSIAN SERVICE. Such are the glories of the banquetroom of the Czar. If you do not wish to be as miserable as Midas, come forth into the fresh air, and get a look at the pure blue sky, which is shining with heaven's own brightness. Descend the scarlet staircase between files of the Chevalier Guard, the Garde à Cheval, the Cuirassiers of the Guard, the Grenadiers of the Guard-all now dismounted and forming a fence bristling with sabres between the scarlet cloth and the nobility. Pass by the Church of the Assumption, and out under the archway to the outer court of the Kremlin-the scarlet cloth still is beneath our feet, and the raised estrade on which the Emperor walks after leaving the Church is carried round outside into the outer court, close to the galleries erected for the occasion, till it reënters the inner court by the archway at the south-eastern extremity. trade is protected by a railing, and at each side there is a wall of soldiers, part of which-a detachment of the Lancers of the Guard-is commanded by Major Hall, who is descended from an English family. And here I may mention that among the Russian officers I have met, there are bearers of the name of Ramsay, Grieg, Bell, Ochterlony, etc. The first who is the descendant of an This es old Scottish family, bearing the arms of trumpets, the strains of the numerous Dalhousie is one of the ablest generals bands, the cheers of the people, the in the service, and was specially engaged measured hurrahs of the soldiery, the roll in the defence of Finland; the others are of drums, the clang of bells, deafened the most likely the representatives of those ears, and almost overwhelmed the senses. adventurous soldiers and sailors of fortune The Metropolitans of Moscow and of Novwho flocked from Scotland to lead the gorod, who had previously blessed and battalions of Northern Europe to victory watered the Imperial Ensign, stood at by their discipline, valor, and sagacity. the door of the Cathedral of the Assumption, and as their Majesties approached, the former presented them the Holy Hood to kiss, which they did most reverently, and the latter sprinkled them with holy water. THE IMPERIAL COUPLE-ENTRY INTO THE EFFECT ON THE RUSSIAN SPECTATORS. We are now inside the cathedral with them, and we are about to witness a ceremony instinct with meaning, and full of sacred solemnity to the mind of the unsophisticated Russian. The eye uninformed by the spirit cannot rightly interpret a great symbolical representation, and we must for the moment put aside our modern-day, constitutional, and essentially English ideas, if we would rightly appreciate the effect of what we are about to witness. Some notion of its significance will be conveyed to the English mind by the thought that it is in the eyes of the Russian people the sacrament and visible consecration of the absolute power of one man over 60,000,000 of his fellow beings. Something of the terror inspired by such an idea is modified by the fact generally and heartily believed, that, in the present instance, the Prince who is to be invested with such awful power is mild in disposition, upright in character, and sincerely desirous that his reign should conduce to the happiness and welfare of his people. Now the Imperial Dais comes in sight' and the Emperor himself presents himself to the people, not amid cheers, but loud shrill cries which overpower the tolling of the bells, the crash of arms, and the loud flourish of drums and trumpets, which rise all around us. Before him march two priests with a gold basin full of holy water, which an Archbishop sprinkles profusely on the scarlet cloth. The Emperor, who possesses the personal advantages of the Romanoff family-a fine erect and stately figure marched with a measured stride, and bowed right and left as he passed down to the estrade. The Empress followed behind him, under the same dais, with thirteen ladies of honor around her, and her appearance was the signal for repeated outbursts of cheering. Her Majesty was dressed with the utmost simplicity, and presented a most charming contrast to the glare by which she was surrounded. There was a gracefulness in her movements a quiet dignity and gentleness which touched every heart, and turned every eye even from the person of her Imperial husband. As the dais was borne down the steps amid the sheen of glittering sword-blades flourished at the Let us for the moment try to identify presence of the Emperor, the picture offer- ourselves in thought with one of his peoed by the Court of the Kremlin was such as ple. The Russian finds himself in the one seldom sees-the splendor of the pa- centre of the magnificent church, every geant, the steady lines of the soldiery, the inch of whose walls glitters with gold, and waving masses of the galleries as they rock-whose pictorial sides offer to his eyes alleed to and fro in their homage and ecstacy. A platoon of the Chevalier Gardes followed the dais, and after them came a member of each family of the High Russian nobility, three and three, behind whom again, in strange juxtaposition, marched a band of artisans and manufacturers; after them followed the corps of 1st Guild of Merchants, by threes; and the procession was closed by another platoon of the Chevalier Gardes. The flourishing of VOL. XL.-NO. I. gorical representations of his faith. On the one hand he sees the saints under the altar of the Apocalypse, looking up to Heaven with the agonized cry, "How long, O Lord ?" On the other he views the avenging flames glaring out of the pit of the wicked; while from the top of the gorgeous ceiling a gigantic head of the Saviour looks down in peace, and gives consolation to his soul. All around him are the sacred relics and images of the 9 |