FOOD AND ITS ADULTERATIONS. ways been a vague idea afloat in the public quite blue. I could not help thinking if any mind about hot copper plates-a suspicion green-tea drinkers had been present during the that gunpowder and hyson do not come by operation, their taste would have been corrected their color honestly, The old Duchess of and I believe improved. One day an English gentleman in Shanghae, Marlborough used to boast that she came into being in conversation with some Chinese from the world before "nerves were in fashion." the green-tea country, asked them what reason We feel half inclined to believe this joke had they had for dyeing the tea, and whether it would a great truth in it; for since the introduc- not be better without undergoing this process. tion of tea, nervous complaints of all kinds They acknowledged that tea was much better have greatly increased; and we need not look when prepared without having any such ingrefar to find one at least of the causes in the dients mixed with it, and that they never drank teapot. There is no such a thing as pure dyed teas themselves, but justly remarked, that, green tea to be met with in England. It is as foreigners seemed to prefer having a mixture of Prussian blue and gypsum with their tea to make it adulterated in China; and we have lately look uniform and pretty, and as these ingrelearnt to adulterate it at home almost as well dients were cheap enough, the Chinese had no as the cunning Asiatic. The pure green tea objection to supply them, especially as such teas made from the most delicate green leaves always fetched a higher price. I took some trouble to ascertain precisely the grown upon manured soil, such as the Chinese use themselves, is, it is true, wholly untaint-quantity of coloring matter used in the process ed; and we are informed that its beauti- of dyeing green teas, not certainly with the view ful bluish bloom, like that upon a grape, is of assisting others, either at home or abroad, in given by the third process of roasting which the art of coloring, but simply to show green-tea it undergoes. The enormous demand for a moderately-priced green tea which has arisen both in England and China since the opening of the trade has led the Hong merchants to imitate this peculiar color; and this they do so successfully as to deceive the ordinary judges of the article. Black tea is openly colored in the neighborhood of Canton in the most wholesale manner. Mr. Robert Fortune, in his very interesting work, "The Tea Districts of China and India," gives us a good description of the manner in which this coloring process is performed, as witnessed by himself: Having procured a portion of Prussian-blue, he threw it into a porcelain bowl, not unlike a chemist's mortar, and crushed it into a very fine powder. At the same time a quantity of gyp sum was produced and burned in the charcoal fires which were then roasting the teas. The object of this was to soften it, in order that it might be readily pounded into a very fine powder, in the same manner as the Prussian-blue had been. The gypsum, having been taken out of the fire after a certain time had elapsed, readily crumbled down, and was reduced to powder in the mortar. These two substances, having been thus prepared, were then mixed together in the proportion of four parts of gypsum to three parts of Prussian-blue, and formed a light blue powder, which was then ready for use. This coloring matter was applied to the teas during the process of roasting. About five minutes before the tea was removed from the pans -the time being regulated by the burning of a joss-stick-the superintendent took a small porcelain spoon, and with it he scattered a portion of the coloring matter over the leaves in each pan. The workmen then turned the leaves round rapidly with both hands, in order that the color might be equally diffused. During this part of the operation the hands of the workmen were drinkers in England, and more particularly in the United States of America, what quantity of Prussian-blue and gypsum they imbibe in the course of one year To 14 lbs. were applied 8 mace 23 candareens of coloring matter, or rather more than an ounce. To every hundred pounds of colored green tea consumed in England or America, the consumer actually drinks more than half a pound of Prussian-blue and gypsum. And yet, tell the drinkers of this colored tea that the Chinese eat cats and dogs, and they will hold up their hands in amazement and pity the poor Celestials. If the Chinese use it in these quantities to tinge the genuine leaf, how much more must the English employ in making up afresh exhausted leaves! That every spoonful of hyson or gunpowder contains a considerable quantity of this deleterious dye will be seen by any one who places a pinch upon a fine sieve, and pours upon it a gentle stream of water, when the tinging of the liquid will show at once the extent of the adulteration, and the folly of drinking painted tea. Assam tea, though not so inviting in color, is free from adulteration. A word to the wise is enough. Of fifty samples of green tea analyzed by Dr. Hassall, all were adulterated. There is one particular kind which is almost entirely a manufactured article-gunpowder, both black and green-the former being called scented caper. Both have a large admixture of what is termed "lye tea," or a compound of sand, dirt, tea-dust, and broken-down portions of other leaves worked together with gum into small nodules. This detestable compound, which, according to Mr. Warrington, who has analyzed it, contains forty-five per cent. *In an article upon the teas of commerce, which appeared in the Quarterly Journal of the Chemical Society for July, 1851. of of earthy matter, is manufactured both in leaves, all spread on the floor drying..... Mr China and in England, for the express pur- Brennan added that the prisoners had pursued pose of adulterating tea. When mixed with this nefarious traffic most extensively, and were "scented caper" it is "faced" with black in the habit of dealing largely with grocers, chandlers, and others in the country. lead; when with gunpowder, Prussian-blue; turmeric and French chalk give it the requirThis poisonous, imitation green tea, ed bloom. Mr. Warrington states that about largely supplied to country grocers," was no 750,000 lbs. of this spurious tea has been im- doubt used for adulterating other green teas ported into Great Britain within eighteen already dosed with Prussian-blue, turmeric, etc. months! Singularly enough, the low-priced These have found their way into many a counteas are the only genuine ones. Every samtry home of small means. When the nephew ple of this class which was analyzed by Dr. comes on a visit, or the curate calls of an afterHassall proved to be perfectly pure. Here at least the poor have the advantage of the bet-noon, the ordinary two spoonfuls of black are ter classes, who pay a higher price to be in- "improved" with "just a dash of green," and the poor innocent gentleman wonders afterjured in their health by a painted beverage. wards what it can be that keeps him awake all The practice of redrying used-up leaves is night. also carried on to some extent in England. We often hear the remark from old-fashioned Mr. George Philips, of the Inland Revenue Office, states that in 1843 there were no less people that we have never had any good tea since the monopoly of the East India Company than eight manufactories for the purpose There can be no posredrying tea-leaves in London alone, whilst was broken up in this remark there is some truth and much error. of there were many others in different parts sible doubt that the higher priced teas have fallthe country. These manufacturers had agents en off since the trade has been open, as the who bought up the used leaves from hotels, buyers of the Company were perfectly aware of clubs, coffeehouses, etc., for twopence-halfthe frauds perpetrated by the Hong merchants, penny and threepence per lb. With these and never allowed a spurious article to be shipleaves, others of various trees were used, and very fine pekoe still flourishes upon the haw-ped. On the other hand, the great reduction which has taken place in the price of the comthorn-bushes, sloe-trees, etc., around the metropolis. As late as the year 1851 the follow-mon black teas, both on account of the cessaing account of the proceedings of one of these tion of the monopoly and the reduction of the nefarious manufacturers appeared in "The duty, has in a great measure destroyed the English manufacture of spurious tea from indigenous leaves. The extent to which this forClerkenwell.-Edward South and Louisa his merly took place may be judged from a Report wife were placed at the bar before Mr. Combe, of the Committee of the House of Commons in charged by Mr. Inspector Brennan of the E divi-1783, which states that no less than four milsion with being concerned in the manufacture lions of pounds were annually manufactured of spurious tea. It appeared from the state from sloe and ash leaves in different parts of ment of the Inspector that, in consequence of England; and this, be it remembered, when information that the prisoners and others were the whole quantity of genuine tea sold by the in the habit of carrying on extensive traffic in manufacturing spurious tea on the premises sit- East India Company did not amount to more uate at 27, Clerkenwell Close, Clerkenwell than six millions of pounds annually. If the better class of black and all green teas Green, on Saturday evening, at about seven o'clock, the witness, in company with Serjeant are thus vilely adulterated, the reader may Cole, proceeded to the house, where they found fancy he can at least take refuge in coffeethe prisoners in an apartment busily engaged in alas! in too many cases he will only avoid the manufacture of spurious tea. There was an Scylla to fall into Charybdis. Coffee, as geneextensive furnace, before which was suspended rally sold in the metropolis and in all large an iron pan, containing sloe-leaves and tea- towns, is adulterated even more than tea. The leaves, which they were in the practice of pur-Treasury Minute, which allowed it to be mixed chasing from coffeeshop-keepers after being used. On searching the place they found an immense with chicory, is at the head and front of the of quantity of used tea, bay leaves, and every de- fending. In the year 1840, this celebrated scription of spurious ingredients for the purpose Minute was issued by the sanction of the then of manufacturing illicit tea, and they were mixed Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sir C. Wood, with a solution of gum and a quantity of copper- the immediate consequence of which was that as. The woman was employed in stirring about grocers began to mix it with pure coffee in the bay-leaves and other composition with the very large quantities, quite forgetting to inform solution of gum in the pan; and in one part of the public of the nature of the mixture, and the room there was a large quantity of spurious neglecting at the same time to lower the price. stuff, the exact imitation of genuine tea. In a * Assam tea is the only exception to this rule. back room they found nearly a hundred pounds weight of redried tea-leaves, bay-leaves, and sloe- but very little of it is imported." Times :-" John The evil became so flagrant that upon the in- Coffee has now become an article of consump- the age; and, as a natural result, the celebrity to Observe! Every canister of John 's coffee bears his signature, without which none is genuine. At the end of this puff the analyst places the words "Adulterated with a considerable quantity of chicory!” More crudite grocers treat us to the puff lite Rich-flavored coffees fresh roasted daily. USE OF COFFEE IN TURKEY. Sandys, the translator of Ovid's Metamorpho "Although they be destitute of taverns, yet have they their coffee-houses, which sometimes resemble them. There sit they chatting most of the day, and sip of a drink called coffa, of the berry that it is made of, in little china dishes, as hot as they can suffer it, black as soot, which helpeth, as they say, digestion and procureth alacrity." This pleasant sample of the puff indirect has also appended to it the naked sentence: "Adulterated with chicory, of which not less than half the sample consists." tients, considering it to be the cause of amau-ses, and who travelled in Turkey in 1610, gives rotic blindness. Even supposing it to be per- (edit. 1657). Speaking of the Turks, he says: the following passage in his Travailes, p. 51 fectly harmless, we have a material of the value of 8d. per lb., which the grocer is allowed to mix ad libitum with one worth 1s. 4d. If the poor got the benefit of the adulteration, there might be some excuse for permitting the admixture of chicory, but it is proved that the combination is sold in many shops at the same price as pure coffee. Analyses made by Dr. Hassall, of upwards of a hundred different samples of coffee, purchased in all parts of the metropolis before the issuing of the order for the labelling of the packages "chicory and coffee," proved that, in a great number of cases, articles sold as "finest Mocha," "choice Jamaica coffee," superb coffee," etc., contained, in some cases, very little coffee at all; in others, " only be found in that which is sold in canisters. a fifth, a third, half," etc., the rest being made The value of the tin envelope cannot be less up mainly of chicory. Nothing is more indica- than 2d. ; and, as the coffee so sold is charged tive of the barefaced frauds perpetrated by at the same price as that in a paper wrapper, it grocers upon the public than the manner in must be evident that a more extensive adul which they go out of their way to puff in the teration is necessary in order to make the grossest style the most abominable trash. The difference. Such, upon examination, proves to report of the Sanitary Commission gives many be the case, as it appeared examples of these puffs and announcements, which, we are informed, are kept set up at the printers', and may be had in any quantities. We quote one as an example : JOHN 's COFFEE, The richness, flavor, and strength of which are not to be surpassed. The worst kinds of adulterated coffee are to up and canisters submitted to analysis, with a single That the whole twenty-nine packages, bottles, exception,* were adulterated. That in these twenty-eight adulterated samples the falsification consisted of so-called chicory, That sold by Messrs. Dakin of St. Paul's Churchyard. which in many instances constituted the chief part | entitled "Observations on London Milk," of the article. That three of the samples contained mangoldwurzel, and two of them roasted wheat-flour. We have said it often happens that the adulterations are adulterated. Chicory is an instance of it. The original fraud is found to have ramified in an endless manner; and Sir Charles Wood will, doubtless, be astonished to hear of the hideous crop of falsifications his most unfortunate order has caused to spring out of the ground. published by a medical gentleman of the name of Rugg, which gave some fearful disclosures relative to the manner in which London milk was adulterated. Dr. Hassall's analyses go to show that, with the exception of the produce of the " iron-tailed cow," none of the supposed defilements really exist, and that the milkman is a sadly-maligned individual. Water is added in quantities varying in different samples from 10 to 50 per cent.; and in the more unfashionable parts of the town all the cream is abstracted to be forwarded to the West End. Immediately the process of transforming If milk must be adulterated in large towns, chicory into coffee became legalized by the water is undoubtedly the most harmless ingreGovernment, that article came into very ex-dient; at the same time it will be seen what a tensive consumption, and factories were set up fraud is perpetrated upon the public by sellespecially for its secret manufacture. The ing milky water at 4d. a quart. reason for this secrecy may be gathered from That the London milking-pail goes as often the list of articles which are made to subserve to the pump as the cow we have no manner the purpose: roasted wheat, ground acorns, of doubt. To bring the diluted goods up to a roasted carrots, scorched beans, roasted pars-delicate cream color, it is common to swing nips, mangold-wurzel, lupin-seeds, dog's bis- round a ball of annatto in the can; and other cuits, burnt sugar, red earth, roasted horse- careful observers and writers upon the adulchestnuts, and, above and beyond all, baked horses' and bullocks' livers. This statement rests upon the authority of Mr. P. G. Simmonds, in a work entitled "Coffee as it is, and as it ought to be: teration of food have detected flour, starch, and treacle. All medical men know that children are often violently disordered by their morning or evening portion, an effect which could not come from the mere admixture of water-and we must confess that we ourselves believe the milkman to be a very wicked fellow. In various parts of the metropolis (he says), but more especially in the east, are to be found liver-bakers. These men take the livers of oxen We are afraid, if we look into the sugarand horses, bake them, and grind them into a powder, which they sell to the low-priced coffee-basin, we shall not find much more comfort We refer here to the shopkeepers, at from four-pence to six-pence than in the milk-jug. per lb., horse's-liver coffee being the highest price. It may be known by allowing the coffee to stand until cold, when a thick pellicle or skin would be found on the top. It goes farther than coffee, and is generally mixed with chicory, and other vegeta ble imitations of coffee. In confirmation of this horrible statement, the Sanitary Commissioners of the Lancet state that, on analysis, this substance which possessed a disagreeable animal smell,... consisted of some imperfectly charred animal matter. ordinary brown sugars, such as are generally used at the breakfast-table for coffee. It is scarcely possible to procure moist sugar which is not infested with animalculæ of the acari genus, a most disgusting class of creatures. In many samples of sugars they swarm to that in almost every case, by dissolving a spoonful extent that the mass moves with them; and in a wine-glass of water, dozens of them can be detected by the naked eye, either floating upon the liquid or adhering to the edge of the glass. Those who are in the habit of "handling" sugars, as it is termed, are liable to a skin affection called the grocer's itch, which is believed to be occasioned by these living inhabitants of our sugar-basins. Horrible as it is to think that such creatures are an article in daily use, we cannot charge the grocer directly with their introduction; the evil is, however, increased by the manner in which he mixes, or "handles," as it is termed in the trade, higher-priced sugars with musco vados, bastards, and other inferior kinds, in which the animalculæ abound. In addition to In close proximity to the tea and coffee pots this foreign animal element, grocers sometimes stand the milk-jug and the sugar-basin. What mix flour with their sugar, and if we are to find we here? A few years ago the town was put any credit in popular belief, sand; but frightened from its propriety by a little work of the presence of this gritty ingredient we The new regulation, enjoining grocers to sell coffee and chicory properly labelled as such, is, no doubt, observed in respectable shops; but in the low neighborhoods the mixture, as before, is passed off for genuine Mocha. However, the purchaser has the means of protection in his own hands: if he prefers coffee pure, let him buy the roasted berry and grind it himself; he will thus be sure of having the real article, and will get it in greater perfection than by purchasing it ready ground. have never seen any trustworthy evidence. | coa is only distinguished from other kinds by CUP OF COFFEE. In the Chicory. Roast wheat. "mangel-wurzel, acorn. beans. " parsnips. Oxide of iron. In the Milk. Flour. There is scarcely an article on the breakfast-table, in fact, which is what it seems to be. The butter, if salt, is adulterated with between 20 and 30 per cent. of water. A merchant in this trade tells the "Lancet" that "between 40,000 and 50,000 casks of adulterated butter are annually sold in London, and the trade knows it as well as they know a bad shilling." Lard when cheap also finds its way to the butter-tub. Perhaps those who flatter themselves that they use nothing but "Epping" will not derive much consolation from the following letter, also published in the same journal :— TO THE EDITOR OF THE LANCET. SIR,-Having taken apartments in the house of a butterman, I was suddenly awoke at three o'clock one morning with a noise in the lower part of the house, and alarmed on perceiving a light below the door of my bedroom; conceiving the house to be on fire, I hurried down stairs. found the whole family busily occupied, and, on my expressing alarm at the house being on fire, they jocosely informed me they were merely mak ing Epping butter. They unhesitatingly informed me of the whole process. For this purpose they made use of fresh salted butter of a very inferior quality; this was repeatedly washed with water in order to free it from the salt. This being accomplished, the next process was to wash it frequently with milk, and the manufacture was completed by the addition of a small quantity of sugar. The amateurs of fresh Epping butter were supplied with this dainty, which yielded my ingenious landlord a profit of at least 100 per cent., besides establishing his shop as being supsu-plied with Epping butter from one of the firstrate dairies. Oxide of Iron, In the Sugar. If Brown Wheat flour. Hundreds of the sugar insect. If White Albumen of bullock's blood. In the Sugar. If Brown- Hundreds of the If White- I am, Sir, your obedient servant, If we try marmalade as a succedaneum, we As we perceive the teetotallers are petition- are no better off-at least if we put any faith ing Parliament and agitating the towns for the in "real Dundee, an excellent substitute for closing of public-houses, we beg to present butter," to be seen piled in heaps in the cheap them, in either hand, with a cup of the above grocers' windows. Dr. Hassall's analysis mixtures, with the humble hope that means proves that this dainty is adulterated to a large will be found by them to supply the British extent with turnips, apples, and carrots: we public with some drink a little less deleterious need not grumble so much at these vegetable to health, a little more pleasant to the palate, products, excepting on the score that it is a and somewhat less disgusting to the feelings. fraud to sell them at 7d. a-pound; but there is Some of the sugar impurities may be avoided the more startling fact that, in twelve out of by using the crystalized East Indian kind-fourteen samples analyzed, copper was detectthe size of the crystals not permitting of its ed and sometimes in large and deleterious being adulterated with inferior sorts. quantities! We shall not dwell upon cocoa further than Accum, in his "Death in the Pot," quotes to state that it is a still rarer thing to obtain it from cookery-books of reputation in his day, pure, than either tea or coffee. The almost recipes which make uninitiated persons stare. universal adulterations are sugar, starch, and For instance, "Modern Cookery, or the Engflour, together with red coloring matter, gener-lish Housewife," gives the following serious dially some ferruginous earth; whilst, as far as rections "to make Greening:' we can see, what is termed homœopathic co- "Take a bit of verdigris the bigness of an |